amazon dining room table
hey everyone my name is matt today we'llbe making three individual waterfall tables and two variations on a rivertable these were a recent project in the wood whisperer guild and i'll tell you abit about the guild later on in this video so let's get started. back innovember of 2015 i picked up an ash log with my newly built log trailer and slabbedit up in my backyard with my chainsaw mill and my dad giving me a hand.these were stacked outdoors for a bit over a year before i brought themindoors to finish drying. the second slab from the bottom on the shorter log isthe slab that i'll be using for the ash waterfall table. in the spring of 2016 ipicked up some small logs from an
orchard. these sat my driveway for almosta year while i built my bandsaw mill. in one of my first videos showing theband sawmill in use i cut this log which would become the two river tables. thefirst table we're gonna take a look at is the ash waterfall table. istarted by trimming the ends to remove the damaged material. before i do thesurfacing on the slab i'll do an initial fill of epoxy. i've applied masking tape tothe underside and ends of the slab and i'm filling from the bottom side. i'll dotwo fills at this orientation. the first will be pretty light that will flow downand contact the tape further sealing the crack. once that epoxy has set i can pourit much heavier fill completely fill in
the cracks without worrying with epoxyseeping past the tape once that's cured i can flip the slab over and fill anyareas where the epoxy didn't flow to and fill any areas don't run all the waythrough a slab next up is flattening and surfacing the slab sits on my flatassembly table and a shim to keep it from rocking this slab has a bit oftwist that the router sled will remove my passes over the slab with the routerto remove the high spots and keep lowering the bit until i've covered theentire surface once that side has done the slack andflipped over and the process can be repeated i stopped the bit before theentire service was cleaned up so i could
include some saw marks towards the edgeof the slab as a reminder of the slavs backstory after a quick sanding toremove the milling marks some mineral spirits helps to give a preview of thegreen i'll clean up the epoxy from the ends and do a little touch-up work onthe surface next i'll add some decorative butterflies to the crackwhich would be in the leg of the table i had an off cut from the high boy thathas some crotch figure in it and used those to create the butterflies i'll addthe shape that i want on each of them and cut them out the little one was a little too small tocut my bandsaw so i did with the saw and
a chisel the butterflies get stuck downwhere i want them to go with carpet tape and that shape is traced onto the slabwith a knife a router is used to remove the bulk of the waste and the finalcleanup can be done back to the lines for some chisels i'll knock off thebottom edges of the butterflies apply glue to the mortises and hammer thebutterflies then after the glue dries and they're flushed up here's how theylook that's nice that's gonna be nice absolutely gorgeous next a little prepwork on the live edge i'll remove the residual bark and sand the edge smooththe top edge is sharp and fragile and so i'll knock off the edge of thespokeshave and blend it with some hand
sanding on to the waterfall joint i'mcutting this one with a circular saw and a straight edge and the straight edgejust happens to be the track for a track saw next i'll make the second cuts aremoved to a wedge of waste this cut needs to be aligned perfectly so a blade cutsalong the existing angled cut right next to the surface of the slab and parallelto the first cut to make checking to fit easier i'll attach the clamping caulsnow these ones extend to the cut together router i'll be using two custommortises a bit of extra support and to protect the edge of the slab clappingthe two parts together i can see the cuts meet up nicely in the middle theyare open on the ends this can be
corrected with the handplant and i'llcheck the cut as i go to make sure it's flat also verify the angles the same alongits length after tweaking both sides the two partscome together perfectly with no gap along the top sides or bottom on thistable i'll use the router with an edge guide to cut the mortises for foldingtendons which will reinforce the joint to get ready for the glue up the extrabit of the calls can be cut away so the grain of the slab is visible and makesure you left to right alignment it's correct for the glue i'm using epoxywhich should give me all the working
time i could possibly need to get thistogether and make sure the grain is aligned as it travels across the joint once the epoxy sets the rest of thecalls can be removed by splitting down one of the plies the remaining veneersare quickly chewed through by the sander as i do the final surface prep they getthe table ready for finish one last check with some mineral spirits to lookfor any tear-out or glue residue that i might have missed before i finish i'musing my usual 5 coats of armour seal standing between each coat with 600 gritsandpaper as i mentioned in the beginning these waterfall tables wererecently a project in the wood whisperer
guild if you're not familiar with theguild let me tell you a bit about it while the finish brings the stable tolife the guilds and online community centered around high-qualityinstructional videos that walk you step-by-step through a project projectscome with detailed plans and cutlass and there are many member benefits like livedemos access to our facebook community and some pretty nice industry discountsthere are many projects that choose from and you can save money by bundlingmultiple projects together if you're not ready to purchaseobject and become a member there's also a free picture frame project which i'llgive you a great feel for what the gilt
is time to make a real base for thistable i'm getting the stock for the base from this reject cherry slab that i'vehad for a few years i decided on the overall trapezoidalshape and drew a full skill image of it on my assembly table i can use thisdrawing to get all the final lengths for each part and the angle will display thejoinery on the base will be bridle joints so i'll lay out and scribe theshoulders of each joint use a table saw to cut the walls of each part and removethe ball for the waist at the bench i'll print up back to theshoulder lines of each part for the glue up on this i'll use calls again to alignthe clamping force once the glue sets
the calls can be removed the whole basefinished prepped and finished can be applied i'll attach the base with counterboredsocket head cap screws and this table is done that's that's nice next we'll takea look at the resin river waterfall table the process for this one is prettysimilar to the first after the initial defect filling withepoxy the slack we flattened on the assembly table with the router slidthese cross sections developed a fair amount of warp as i'd expect from anarea of the tree with a good amount of stress in itso it did end up losing a good amount of
thickness as i was doing a flat bang andsurfacing with the surface thing out of the way i can focus on the epoxy coreare you shaving tape to create a form between the two limbs and clamp the slabdown to the bench i'll be doing the fill in two pours this first one will be thinand we'll just serve to further create a barrier up against the tape so i won'thave to worry as much about the epoxy leaking out i had a couple metallicpigments mix it up and put the cup in the vacuum chamber to pull the airbubbles out i'll pour that in and let it sit for about a day until it's prettywell gelled up and then start on the main pour the epoxy i'm using for thisriver is eco-park c's liquid plastic i'm
mixing at a two to one ratio for aharder cure 1 to 10 the pigments i'm using are equal parts of pearl x trueblue and turquoise again the air is pulled out in the vacuum chamber andthen it's time to pour the biggest advantage of using a productlike this is this long set time this allows you to do thick pores withouthaving to worry about heat buildup that could cause curing issues over the nextday i'll watch for any bubbles that rise out of the epoxy and pop them with atorch after about four days the epoxy has cured and i can remove the tape asthe epoxy went through its final cure it shrunk below the surface of the slab soran the whole thing through the planer
to flush everything upand here's help the slab and the epoxy look with some mineral spirits appliednow it's on to the waterfall joint this time i'm using a track saw to make theprocess a bit easier the cut was pretty darn good up the sawbut i gave it a few passes with the plane just to further clean things up the reinforcement on this waterfalljoint is done with the domino again just an easier method next i can attach theclamping cauls and get the two parts glued together i'll remove the calls and double-checkthings with some mineral spirits next
i'll work on polishing the epoxy tobring back its luster i stand as the wood to 180 grit and i'll take the epoxyup to 1,000 grit working through the grits and quitting off the surface aftereach grit and lastly it's time to get some finish on this one next up is the glass river table thisone's going to be pretty close to the last one a big difference on this one isi didn't fully surface both sides i surfaced the top side and didn't fullyclean up the underside so i could preserve some more thickness thewaterfall joint goes exactly the same way as the last one except now insteadof cutting through resin i'm cutting
through crotch now that this thing is glued up into anl i can work on coming up with a shape for the glass i'm creating a patternthat follows the grain of the wood out of mdf once i have the shape finalized ican take this template to a glass shop and have them cut a matching piece ofglass that can be inlaid into the table a couple of weeks later that piece ofmdf has been transformed into a piece of glass and i can get started on the inlayi'll start working on my inlaid sample by routing around the perimeter of theglass since the glass was hand-cut using theglass and said the mdf template in case
there are any discrepancies to make theinlay process easier i'll take the templates a step furtherand make a perfectly sized negative template this will make it easier toposition the glass exactly in the right spot and i can test fit the glass tomake sure everything fits correctly i have to tweak that negative template abit to get the fit perfect but once it was perfect i could stick the templatedown to the slab in exactly where position and route the rabbet the glasswill sit in with a pattern bit a little finesse work and this table isready for finish now those two crotch tables need basisthese ones we made from steel and will
have a similar trapezoidal shape i'llagain draw a full-sized image of what i'm after and since the base will havemitered corners the drawing also makes it easy to bisect the overall angle so ican pick up the miter angle with a bevel gauge and strands for that to my sawi'll make all the cuts on the bandsaw for both bases the base of the epoxyriver table is mirror so the length of the top and bottom pieces are shorterbut the side pieces are exactly the same i'll drill the mounting holes throughthe top and clean off all a mill scale before weld them together i grind the welds flush and then it'stime to finish on the bigger one i'm
doing a baked on boiled linseed oilfinish the base sat in my oven for about an hour at 550 degrees before i quicklypulled it out and white boiled linseed oil onto the surfacethis gives the base and almost bronze look the other one i want to leave justas a bright brush steel type look so i clean it off and apply a few coats ofshellac so this video is actually cut down from the 17 videos on buildingthese three tables over in the guild so if you want a more in-depth look at theconstruction of all three of these tables all different variations and alldifferent tables definitely check it out to be a link to that down in thedescription so i'm really happy with the
way that all three of these turned out ithink though my favorite is gonna be the glass inlay river table just somethingabout having the crotch figure just come right over the corner here with thisreally nice piece of glass i think the color of the blue in this glass and thejust overall transparency there this makes a really nice compliment upagainst the album for of the wood so this is probably favorite probably theastra is my second favorite it has those really subtlecrotch would bow ties in the leg and i think that adds a nice subtle feel to itand there's some really cool figure and some really interesting stain down hereas well overall i do like all three of
them so that's it for this one thank youas always for watching i greatly appreciate it if you've any questions orcomments but anything in the video please feel free leave me your commentsand i'll be happy to answer any questions you might have and until nexttime happy working